Trains to Life – Trains to Death

How do we decide what is and is not appropriate behaviour when interacting with sites of memory such as the memorial “Trains to Life – Trains to Death,” which tells the story of Jewish children escaping Nazi Germany, and others who were deported to death camps? Who are we, as outside academics, to judge the actions of people we don’t know?

It might appear to some that this child, whose mother is seemingly distracted by something on her phone, is acting inappropriately. Or is it the mother at fault for not watching over her child’s actions? Or is this an innocent example of a child exploring the world around them, a world which includes these memorials so widely across the landscape of the city. What is it like to grow up surrounded by these haunted memories of atrocities done to the children of the past? Do these memorials become just another facet of the architecture of a modern city that people grow complacent toward?

Do memorials exist in an abstract space where people are not allowed to interact with them? Or are memorials meant to be interacted with, touched, vandalised and left to decay over time, like the memory of the event they symbolise? We can, as academics, discuss memorials all we want in our classrooms thousands of miles away and years removed from these places of memory. Still, it is not until one is in these spaces seeing it with one’s own eyes that our preconceived ideas and theories get thrown out the window and the reality of a complicated world replaces it.

Rosenstrasse

Does one assume that teenagers will automatically disrespect a memorial or site of remembrance with the express intention to do so? Here we see teens climbing, sitting and playing with the Rosenstrasse memorial which is dedicated to the German women who protested the Nazis for taking their Jewish husbands into custody in 1943. At first glance, it can seem like these teens are being disrespectful to this site by acting as such, however, upon further investigation, it seemed as if this was not their intention. At least to the individuals we spoke to, they were unaware of the memorials’ origins. They were somewhat apologetic, while also being defensive at the accusations we made about their behaviours.

We assume, when we attempt to correct other people’s behaviours, that we know better and are on some level, morally superior. But what at first glance was teens disrespecting this memorial, was more complicated. How do we then continue to bring this judgement onto people at these sites of memory, while preaching not judging others’ actions? We do not know why these people are here or how they feel about their actions, we only know our thoughts. It should come as no surprise then, when people don’t live up to our impossible standards that they were not aware existed in the first place.

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe

Are people condemned for taking a break on a hot summer day? Am I, as I sit under the shade of a tree, observing others interacting with the site, while sitting on my own stelae, condemned for inappropriate behaviour? This memorial has sat in the heart of Berlin for over 20 years and has become as much part of the makeup of the city as the TV tower or Brandenburg Gate. Would one not expect that due to its centrality in the city and large footprint that Berliners would develop a unique relationship with the memorial that we cannot understand as outsiders? The large presence of tourists also impacts one’s experiences at this site. Do children playing within the stelae break the chain of remembrance or do they show how the world continues to spin even after such a great loss?

A little boy plays on the stelae while his father watches on

The rules for the site ban jumping between the stelae, but they don’t ban sitting on them, and this ban seems more for safety rather than respectability. This father, who watches as his child climbs from stelae to stelae is attentive to make sure his child is unharmed. Children run through the stelae, playing tag or other games while their parents watch on chatting or eating lunch on the outside edges of the memorial. As shocking as these actions could be to our serious academic minds, the reality is that these spaces are not solemn places of remembrance we hold them to be. They are public spaces where people are allowed to act as they wish, whether or not they know the significance of the location or not.

Memorial to the Sinti and Roma of Europe Murdered Under National Socialism

Entrance to the Memorial for the Sinti and Roma

This memorial, which is tucked away in the middle of Berlin is blocked away from the rest of the city by walls of glass. Walking up to the memorial, you are presented with a wall of information on the persecution of the Sinti and Roma as well as the process to get them recognized as a victim group of national socialism. A short animated video testimony is also playing on a loop outside the space. Inside, there is the main reflecting pool, surrounded by stones with the names of the locations where the Sinti and Roma were murdered. This space, unlike the other memorials, is quiet. Other than the violin music playing and the faint sounds of construction, no children are running around, no one is sitting having a picnic, and nothing “disrespectful” is happening in this space.

The Memorials Reflection Pool

The sombre feeling that one can experience in this space, as opposed to others, shows us the importance of design in creating these spaces of memory. This memorial, while being in a central location, is isolated away from the city and surrounded by nature. You are forced to interact and reflect on the memorial because it is the only thing within the space to interact with. When you are done with your reflection or observation, you then leave the space behind. This site has clear boundaries, and while the information section is on the outside of the memorial, it too is secluded off to the side of the walking path.

I think that this shows how important design is when getting people to interact with memorial sites. This memorial is only a few blocks away from the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, yet how people interaction with the space is so different. This space is clearly labelled, which is not true for a lot of sites we visited. It is also secluded away from the normal activity of the city so people don’t interact with it as often. While you can argue over the pros and cons of its isolation, the visitor behaviour, at least from what I saw, was much more informed and reflective than any other site I visited.

Jewish Ghetto Memorial

This is the Jewish Ghetto Memorial or “Ghetto Heroes Square” in Kraków, which commemmorates those who were forced into the ghetto and murdered. The memorial itself consists of 70 large chairs each representing around 1000 Jewish victims deproted from the ghetto to concentration camps. In this photo, a woman sits on one of the chairs, looking through the back of it, and posing for a photo. Not pictured here is the man off to the left, posing with the woman for a photo a few moments before this photo was taken. How do we interpret this photoshoot? If it were earlier in the trip I would have likely been upset to see this image, thinking that these people were making a mockery of the space. Now however, I am more inclined to try and understand where they might be coming from. Who knows if they are simply tourists who thought that this space was a good photo opportunity, without any knowledge of the place’s significance. Or, they could be descendants of survivors who came here with specific intent to see this, and other, sites and prove that the Nazis did not succeed. Nothing could have prepared me to challenge my academic bias in this way before the trip, but facing them head on in these emotionally charged situations forced me to reevaluate what I consider to be “appropriate” behaviour.

Memorial for the Victims of Nazi Military Justice

Memorial for the Victims of Nazi Military Justice in Vienna

This is the Memorial for the Victims of Nazi Military Justice in Vienna. It commemorates those who were killed desterting the Nazis. This memorial has two unique things happening, the first one is the design of it and the second one is the protest happening at the site. This memorial is designed to be climbed on. Similar to the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe it is made up of concrete slabs and in a park space within the centre of the city. However, this memorial requires you to climb on it to see the full extent of its design and meaning. People also casually sit on the different levels to eat lunch and generally hang out. These behaviours are encouraged and do not detract from the Memorials meaning or overall impact to the visitor. The second unique thing happening in this space is the protest by the Grandma’s Against the Right. Once I knew that these women were there protesting against political far-right parties, I was elated to take a photo of them and cheer them on. These women are using the memorial to help their protest both as an example of the dangers of the far right and as a place to sit while they protest. It was not until later that I thought about the double standard I placed on this memorial.

Grandmas Against the Right Protest

These actions did not feel out of place at this memorial, but I am struck with the question of why? If people were meant to climb on the stelae of the Memorial for the Murdered Jews of Europe, would that change the feelings surrounding the space to be less focused on our perceptions of people’s disrespect and more about experiencing the space itself. Even without the climbing element, seeing people sitting casually on this memorial did not give that visceral reaction like at the stelae. If we saw a protest, even one we agreed with, like the Grandmas against the right, on the stelae, would we feel the same way as seeing them on this memorial? Both memorials commemorate victims of the Nazi regime, yet the same behaviour feels disrespectful at one but encouraged at the another. 

The different energy which I felt at each site is likely influenced by a number of factors. The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe was one of the first big memorials we saw on this trip, so our expectations of how to act at a memorial were not yet challenged by our experiences. I also wonder if the specific group being commemorated also influenced our group reactions. I personally felt like spaces which specifically commemorated Jewish victimhood was given more prominence by our group and seemingly “inappropriate” behaviours was more condemned at these sites. With the current state of world politics, I wonder if there is an extra sensitivity around any seemingly anti-Jewish sentiment. I am in no way condoning actual anti-semitism, however, due to the increased vulnerability of the Jewish community, any action, even if no harm is intended, can be seen as disrespectful and anti-semitic. This could explain why the same hostility was not directed toward similar actions at sites not specifically commemorating Jewish victims. This is not only about our group but also includeds a more general sentiment I experienced throughout the trip and readings.

ARCUS – Shadow of a Rainbow

Here is ARCUS, the memorial for homosexuals persecuted under the Nazi regime. Here I am, standing in front of a memorial commemorating the suffering and death of people during the Holocaust, posing for a photo with my friends, doing the very thing I condemned others for. As someone who identifies with the LGBTQ+ community and having done research on the creation of this memorial, I wanted to have a photo of myself with the memorial. To an outsider, my actions could seem disrespectful to the memory of those who died, just as the actions of others seemed disrespectful to me. My actions had more to do with my critique of the memorial itself than the history it represents, but you would not know that unless you asked me to explain.

This is what I think is so important. We can talk about how we should not judge others for their actions, but that is something that we constantly do. I believe that it is important to step back, take a breath, and realise that everyone has different reasons for their actions. We don’t know why anyone is at a particular site of memory, if they have connections to history or if they even know what the site itself represents. It is not fair for us as outside academics to come in with our feelings of moral superiority and judge them on what we think of as disrespectful attitudes when we don’t now the full picture.

Obviously, as with anything, there are exceptions to this rule and people do purposefully disrespect these sites of memory, but those actions are taken with express intent. The average person does not go to these sites with this intent so we should stop condemning them as if they are.